​Nestled in the horological heartland of La Chaux-de-Fonds, a city synonymous with watchmaking excellence, lies a state-of-the-art manufacturer pushing the boundaries of materials innovation—a specialist in high-tech colored ceramic components. From cases to bezels and bracelets, this facility transforms raw ceramic powder into lustrous, scratch-resistant masterpieces destined for the world's most prestigious timepieces. Chanel is only one of three Swiss manufacturers that have done so. 

​Located about 1.5 hours from Geneva, the area is known for its watchmaking prowess. The crisp Alpine air carries a quiet sense of precision and craftsmanship. The building itself is a study in modern industrial design—glass, steel, and sleek surfaces that reflect the very materials crafted within. Inside, the atmosphere is pristine and almost clinical, akin to a high-tech laboratory or medical facility. 

​A guided tour begins with an introduction to the ceramic-making process, which is far more complex than one might imagine. The raw material, zirconium dioxide, arrives as an ultra-fine powder, which must be carefully blended with proprietary pigments to achieve the perfect hues, whether deep black or sparkling white. A fascinating observation is that the powered pigments often start out looking nothing like the final product. 

Next comes isostatic pressing, where immense pressure compacts the material into pre-formed shapes. This is followed by sintering, where components are baked at over 1,400°C, shrinking by nearly 30% while achieving their legendary hardness and resilience.  

​Unlike metal, ceramic is notoriously tricky to work with. Here, we witness diamond-tipped CNC machines carving the hardened ceramic to within micron-level tolerances. Bezel grooves, bracelet links, and case profiles emerge in perfect symmetry. Final components are tossed into large vats of what appears to be a type of ball bearing for different levels of finishing, from high gloss to matte. A separate area is dedicated to hand-finishing, where artisans polish and brush surfaces with obsessive attention to detail—mimicking the contrast of polished and satin-finished gold or steel but with ceramic's unique tactile feel.  

​Components are meticulously inspected under high magnification in a dedicated cleanroom. Any slight imperfection means a piece is discarded—perfection is the only acceptable standard. Some cases are paired with other elements, fusing the best of traditional and modern materials.  

Having worn an all-ceramic watch for quite some time, I can attest that the sensation is unexpected—lighter than steel, yet velvety smooth and impossibly durable. The tactile quality of the ceramic feels fantastic on the skin, reacting to the body temperature almost immediately. The colors of the final products are rich and deep, with a permanence that will never fade.  

​Chanel's approach to watchmaking goes beyond material innovation—it's also a fascinating study in strategic brand development. Chanel has been quietly investing in independent watchmakers like Bell & Ross, F.P. Journe, and MB&F, alongside acquiring key manufacturers such as G&F Châtelain and Manufacture Romain Gauthier. These partnerships safeguard traditional Swiss craftsmanship and serve as a calculated move to cement Chanel's status among haute horology's elite. With remarkable global name recognition, the brand cultivates a distinctive presence through fashion awareness. Still, the artisanal expertise, technical innovation, and a thoughtful, long-term vision help elevate its luxury watchmaking division to stand very much on its own.

​I've been an editor for a long time, covering a wide range of subjects, and I genuinely appreciate differing opinions—not everything is for everyone. However, I recently came across a TikTok post that I found deeply problematic. While everyone is entitled to their opinion, it’s essential to ensure that what you’re stating is factually accurate. With that in mind, I want to offer my personal perspective on the Bremont (bremont.com) rebrand and the reasoning behind my support. More often than not, the person who shouts the loudest is the one who deserves the least attention.

For years, Bremont set out to achieve the impossible: to restore British watchmaking to global prominence. Founded by brothers Nick and Giles English, the brand earned a loyal following with its aviation-inspired designs and unwavering commitment to in-house manufacturing. Yet, ambition came at a cost. Significant financial struggles—including reported losses nearing £14 million—cast doubt on its long-term sustainability, ultimately leading to a pivotal leadership shift.
Enter Davide Cerrato, responsible for Tudor's Black Bay revolution and Montblanc's modern resurgence. In May 2023, he took the helm as CEO, bringing a bold new vision to a brand in need of reinvention. Under his leadership, Bremont has undergone its most significant transformation yet—one that doesn't abandon its heritage but refines and amplifies it.​

​Cerrato’s influence can be felt across Bremont’s aesthetic and technical direction. The brand’s visual identity has been streamlined with cleaner, more sophisticated designs that still retain the rugged appeal of classic Bremont tool watches. The controversial logo change—initially met with skepticism—signaled a fresh start, modernizing the brand while maintaining the spirit of innovation. Meanwhile, the collection has evolved, embracing more refined case architecture and finishing, reinforcing Bremont’s place as a serious contender in luxury watchmaking.

Some of my recent Bremont collection favorites: 

​Since its debut in 1993, the OMEGA (omegawatches.com) Seamaster Diver 300M has been a cornerstone of the brand’s watchmaking legacy, celebrated for its blend of performance, durability, and timeless design. Now, in 2025, OMEGA adds a new chapter to this storied collection by introducing two models crafted in Bronze Gold—a material that nods to the past while embracing the future of high-performance watchmaking.  

​Bronze is experiencing a surprising resurgence in the watch world, with its warm, vintage aesthetic appealing to collectors who appreciate character and patina. However, traditional bronze cases, prone to green oxidation, come with maintenance challenges. OMEGA’s proprietary Bronze Gold alloy solves this issue, offering superior corrosion resistance while developing a more refined, long-lasting patina. The alloy is composed of 37.5% gold, palladium, and silver, giving it a distinctive tone that will age gracefully over time.  

Inspired by the Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition from No Time to Die, these new models incorporate familiar design cues, such as a fantastic mesh bracelet, an oxalic anodized aluminum bezel ring and dial, and a domed sapphire crystal. The 42 mm case in Bronze Gold is paired with a gorgeous deep burgundy anodized aluminum bezel featuring a vintage Super-LumiNova diving scale for enhanced readability. The matte black sandblasted aluminum dial is accented by PVD 18K Bronze Gold hands and blackened indexes, also filled with vintage Super-LumiNova. The OMEGA logo and other dial details are finished in light brown, lending a subtle warmth to the overall design.  ​

Two strap options are available: a brushed Bronze Gold mesh bracelet with a foldover clasp or an integrated black rubber strap with a Bronze Gold buckle. Powering both models is the OMEGA Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8806, a movement certified to METAS standards for precision, performance, and magnetic resistance.
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With this launch, OMEGA not only reinforces the Seamaster Diver 300M’s legacy but also signals bronze’s return as a material of choice for modern collectors—blending vintage allure with cutting-edge innovation.

​In the world of haute horlogerie, unexpected collaborations push the boundaries of creativity. Still, few are as strikingly audacious as the latest union between Bvlgari and MB&F. Introducing the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti (mbandf.com), the second chapter in a partnership that began with the vibrant LM FlyingT Allegra in 2021. This timepiece isn't just a watch; it's a mesmerizing fusion of heritage and horological innovation. It opens the door to a new type of Serpenti, a genderless concept that delivers a much desired take on the legendary feminine high jewelry watch. 

​Founded in 1884, Bvlgari is synonymous with Italian elegance and masterful craftsmanship, its timepiece legacy adorned with iconic creations like the Serpenti and Octo Finissimo. MB&F (Maximilian Büsser & Friends), since its inception in 2005, has redefined horology with its three-dimensional kinetic sculptures inspired by science fiction, supercars, and the animal kingdom. The genesis of this partnership was serendipitous—a chance meeting between Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bvlgari's Director of Watchmaking Creations, and MB&F's visionary founder, Maximilian Büsser.

​Reimagining the Serpenti —an emblem of eternal rebirth and bold metamorphosis—through MB&F's avant-garde lens required an entirely new approach. The case, a complex curved snake head shape reminiscent of the previous MB&F Bullfrog release, extends beyond traditional watchmaking with five meticulously crafted sapphire crystals, including the hypnotic snake's eyes. These domes are more than aesthetic marvels; they are revolving hour and minute indicators, machined from solid aluminum for weightlessness, and enhanced with hand-applied Super-LumiNova to maintain the serpent's luminous gaze even in darkness.

​Beneath this serpentine exterior lies a mechanical masterpiece. The oversized 14mm flying balance wheel, the "brain" of this mechanical reptile, floats majestically under a three-dimensional balance bridge. Flip the watch, and the case back reveals the power reserve indicator alongside some of the 310 hand-finished components—a testament to MB&F's dedication to artisanal craftsmanship.

Automotive influences subtly weave into the design, reflecting both Fabrizio and Max's passion for car aesthetics. From the case's sleek, aerodynamic profile to crown details reminiscent of sports car wheels, every element echoes dynamic motion. Even the hexagonal grille motif nods to Bvlgari's historic Serpenti designs while channeling the spirit of high-performance engineering.

The Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti debuts in three captivating versions, each limited to just 33 pieces:

• Grade 5 Titanium with deep blue hour and minute domes
• 18K Rose Gold featuring piercing green eyes
• Black PVD-Coated Stainless Steel with vibrant red eyes

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Pricing reflects the exceptional craftsmanship: CHF 132,000 + VAT (USD 148,000 / EUR 140,000 + tax) for the titanium and stainless steel models and CHF 152,000 + VAT (USD 170,000 / EUR 161,000 + tax) for the 18K gold variant.

​Few brands embody the fusion of art and engineering quite like Richard Mille (richardmille.com). Known for its avant-garde timepieces, the Swiss luxury watchmaker has always drawn inspiration from contemporary art and design. Now, the brand takes that connection to new heights with a three-year partnership with the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), one of the world's most influential art institutions.

Like contemporary artists who push creative boundaries, Richard Mille redefines the art of watchmaking, merging cutting-edge technology with an uncompromising aesthetic. The recent Richard Mille release, the angular RM 16-02 Extraflat, was on hand, reflecting the brand's dedication to transcending the conventional. It is a timepiece quintessentially Richard Mille, equally as controversial and challenging as the conceptual art on view. ​

​As a Major Partner, Richard Mille will support MoMA's Contemporary Collection, including exhibitions in the museum's second-floor galleries and performances in the Marie-Josée and Henry Kravis Studio. The museum serves as a space where the avant-garde meets the accessible, offering the public an invitation to explore the complexity of modern life through the lens of art.