​Before Louis Vuitton (us.louisvuitton.com) officially entered the world of haute horlogerie with the Tambour in 2002, the brand took an early and unconventional step into watchmaking with the Monterey. The watch was first released in 1988, a groundbreaking collaboration between Louis Vuitton, the Swiss watch brand IWC, and the renowned Italian architect Gae Aulenti. Known for her visionary work in design—including the transformation of Paris's Gare d'Orsay into the Musée d'Orsay (my all-time favorite museums)—Aulenti brought an avant-garde sensibility to the world of watchmaking, making the Monterey one of the very few watches designed by a woman.

​For Louis Vuitton, which originated as a luggage maker, travel themes are omnipresent, never so much as in the recent fall-winter fashion collection shown in Paris on March 10, 2025. Presented at L'etoile du Nord, the location was a former HQ of a train company located near the Gare du Nord station. One of Aulenti's most famous projects, an art museum in a former train station, provided an additional link to the multi-layered train travel themes embedded in the show. Rumor has it that Vuitton plans to rerelease the Monterey in precious metal with an automatic movement in a very limited edition. 

What truly sets the quartz-powered Monterey apart is its striking design. The ceramic case, a rarity at the time, houses an unusual dial configuration: Arabic numerals for the hours are placed at the center, surrounded by a railroad track for minutes. In contrast, bold red date numerals line the outer edge. But its most distinctive feature is the crown, which protrudes from the top of the case, earning the watch its fitting nickname: "The Unicorn."

One of the more fascinating design features is that Aulenti also eliminated traditional lugs. Instead, a single-piece strap threads through the case back, ensuring a sleek, seamless integration of strap and watch.

​Today, the Monterey remains a cult classic, a hidden treasure in the world of luxury watches. It has even found a fan in Jean Arnauld, Louis Vuitton's Director of Watchmaking, who has been spotted wearing one. As Louis Vuitton deepens its commitment to fine watchmaking, with ventures like the revival of Daniel Roth, the Monterey stands as a testament to the brand's early—and quietly revolutionary—steps into horology.

This less complicated version of the Louis Vuitton watch, the Monterey II, is currently available at The Keystone.

​Blancpain’s (blancpain.com) Fifty Fathoms Tech BOC IV is more than a dive watch—it’s a commitment to ocean conservation. Limited to just 100 pieces, this latest release in the Ocean Commitment series helps fund the new Blancpain x Sulubaaï marine research center in the Philippines, with €1,000 from each sale supporting marine research and protection.

​Powering the watch is the caliber 1315A, an automatic movement with a five-day power reserve and an anti-magnetic silicon balance spring for exceptional precision. The sapphire case back reveals an 18k gold oscillating weight engraved with the blue BOC logo.

Beyond its technical prowess, the BOC IV supports marine conservation through the Sea Academy program, establishing protected areas around Pangatalan Island and Shark Fin Bay. Each watch comes in a Pelicase™ box with a donation certificate and an exclusive numbered photograph by award-winning underwater photographer Laurent Ballesta.

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Owners of this timepiece also join the Blancpain Ocean Commitment Circle, a community dedicated to preserving the seas. With only 100 available, this watch represents a rare chance to own a piece of Blancpain’s legacy while contributing to ocean conservation.

​Nestled in the horological heartland of La Chaux-de-Fonds, a city synonymous with watchmaking excellence, lies a state-of-the-art manufacturer pushing the boundaries of materials innovation—a specialist in high-tech colored ceramic components. From cases to bezels and bracelets, this facility transforms raw ceramic powder into lustrous, scratch-resistant masterpieces destined for the world's most prestigious timepieces. Chanel is only one of three Swiss manufacturers that have done so. 

​Located about 1.5 hours from Geneva, the area is known for its watchmaking prowess. The crisp Alpine air carries a quiet sense of precision and craftsmanship. The building itself is a study in modern industrial design—glass, steel, and sleek surfaces that reflect the very materials crafted within. Inside, the atmosphere is pristine and almost clinical, akin to a high-tech laboratory or medical facility. 

​A guided tour begins with an introduction to the ceramic-making process, which is far more complex than one might imagine. The raw material, zirconium dioxide, arrives as an ultra-fine powder, which must be carefully blended with proprietary pigments to achieve the perfect hues, whether deep black or sparkling white. A fascinating observation is that the powered pigments often start out looking nothing like the final product. 

Next comes isostatic pressing, where immense pressure compacts the material into pre-formed shapes. This is followed by sintering, where components are baked at over 1,400°C, shrinking by nearly 30% while achieving their legendary hardness and resilience.  

​Unlike metal, ceramic is notoriously tricky to work with. Here, we witness diamond-tipped CNC machines carving the hardened ceramic to within micron-level tolerances. Bezel grooves, bracelet links, and case profiles emerge in perfect symmetry. Final components are tossed into large vats of what appears to be a type of ball bearing for different levels of finishing, from high gloss to matte. A separate area is dedicated to hand-finishing, where artisans polish and brush surfaces with obsessive attention to detail—mimicking the contrast of polished and satin-finished gold or steel but with ceramic's unique tactile feel.  

​Components are meticulously inspected under high magnification in a dedicated cleanroom. Any slight imperfection means a piece is discarded—perfection is the only acceptable standard. Some cases are paired with other elements, fusing the best of traditional and modern materials.  

Having worn an all-ceramic watch for quite some time, I can attest that the sensation is unexpected—lighter than steel, yet velvety smooth and impossibly durable. The tactile quality of the ceramic feels fantastic on the skin, reacting to the body temperature almost immediately. The colors of the final products are rich and deep, with a permanence that will never fade.  

​Chanel's approach to watchmaking goes beyond material innovation—it's also a fascinating study in strategic brand development. Chanel has been quietly investing in independent watchmakers like Bell & Ross, F.P. Journe, and MB&F, alongside acquiring key manufacturers such as G&F Châtelain and Manufacture Romain Gauthier. These partnerships safeguard traditional Swiss craftsmanship and serve as a calculated move to cement Chanel's status among haute horology's elite. With remarkable global name recognition, the brand cultivates a distinctive presence through fashion awareness. Still, the artisanal expertise, technical innovation, and a thoughtful, long-term vision help elevate its luxury watchmaking division to stand very much on its own.

​I've been an editor for a long time, covering a wide range of subjects, and I genuinely appreciate differing opinions—not everything is for everyone. However, I recently came across a TikTok post that I found deeply problematic. While everyone is entitled to their opinion, it’s essential to ensure that what you’re stating is factually accurate. With that in mind, I want to offer my personal perspective on the Bremont (bremont.com) rebrand and the reasoning behind my support. More often than not, the person who shouts the loudest is the one who deserves the least attention.

For years, Bremont set out to achieve the impossible: to restore British watchmaking to global prominence. Founded by brothers Nick and Giles English, the brand earned a loyal following with its aviation-inspired designs and unwavering commitment to in-house manufacturing. Yet, ambition came at a cost. Significant financial struggles—including reported losses nearing £14 million—cast doubt on its long-term sustainability, ultimately leading to a pivotal leadership shift.
Enter Davide Cerrato, responsible for Tudor's Black Bay revolution and Montblanc's modern resurgence. In May 2023, he took the helm as CEO, bringing a bold new vision to a brand in need of reinvention. Under his leadership, Bremont has undergone its most significant transformation yet—one that doesn't abandon its heritage but refines and amplifies it.​

​Cerrato’s influence can be felt across Bremont’s aesthetic and technical direction. The brand’s visual identity has been streamlined with cleaner, more sophisticated designs that still retain the rugged appeal of classic Bremont tool watches. The controversial logo change—initially met with skepticism—signaled a fresh start, modernizing the brand while maintaining the spirit of innovation. Meanwhile, the collection has evolved, embracing more refined case architecture and finishing, reinforcing Bremont’s place as a serious contender in luxury watchmaking.

Some of my recent Bremont collection favorites: 

​Since its debut in 1993, the OMEGA (omegawatches.com) Seamaster Diver 300M has been a cornerstone of the brand’s watchmaking legacy, celebrated for its blend of performance, durability, and timeless design. Now, in 2025, OMEGA adds a new chapter to this storied collection by introducing two models crafted in Bronze Gold—a material that nods to the past while embracing the future of high-performance watchmaking.  

​Bronze is experiencing a surprising resurgence in the watch world, with its warm, vintage aesthetic appealing to collectors who appreciate character and patina. However, traditional bronze cases, prone to green oxidation, come with maintenance challenges. OMEGA’s proprietary Bronze Gold alloy solves this issue, offering superior corrosion resistance while developing a more refined, long-lasting patina. The alloy is composed of 37.5% gold, palladium, and silver, giving it a distinctive tone that will age gracefully over time.  

Inspired by the Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition from No Time to Die, these new models incorporate familiar design cues, such as a fantastic mesh bracelet, an oxalic anodized aluminum bezel ring and dial, and a domed sapphire crystal. The 42 mm case in Bronze Gold is paired with a gorgeous deep burgundy anodized aluminum bezel featuring a vintage Super-LumiNova diving scale for enhanced readability. The matte black sandblasted aluminum dial is accented by PVD 18K Bronze Gold hands and blackened indexes, also filled with vintage Super-LumiNova. The OMEGA logo and other dial details are finished in light brown, lending a subtle warmth to the overall design.  ​

Two strap options are available: a brushed Bronze Gold mesh bracelet with a foldover clasp or an integrated black rubber strap with a Bronze Gold buckle. Powering both models is the OMEGA Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8806, a movement certified to METAS standards for precision, performance, and magnetic resistance.
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With this launch, OMEGA not only reinforces the Seamaster Diver 300M’s legacy but also signals bronze’s return as a material of choice for modern collectors—blending vintage allure with cutting-edge innovation.

​In the world of haute horlogerie, unexpected collaborations push the boundaries of creativity. Still, few are as strikingly audacious as the latest union between Bvlgari and MB&F. Introducing the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti (mbandf.com), the second chapter in a partnership that began with the vibrant LM FlyingT Allegra in 2021. This timepiece isn't just a watch; it's a mesmerizing fusion of heritage and horological innovation. It opens the door to a new type of Serpenti, a genderless concept that delivers a much desired take on the legendary feminine high jewelry watch. 

​Founded in 1884, Bvlgari is synonymous with Italian elegance and masterful craftsmanship, its timepiece legacy adorned with iconic creations like the Serpenti and Octo Finissimo. MB&F (Maximilian Büsser & Friends), since its inception in 2005, has redefined horology with its three-dimensional kinetic sculptures inspired by science fiction, supercars, and the animal kingdom. The genesis of this partnership was serendipitous—a chance meeting between Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bvlgari's Director of Watchmaking Creations, and MB&F's visionary founder, Maximilian Büsser.

​Reimagining the Serpenti —an emblem of eternal rebirth and bold metamorphosis—through MB&F's avant-garde lens required an entirely new approach. The case, a complex curved snake head shape reminiscent of the previous MB&F Bullfrog release, extends beyond traditional watchmaking with five meticulously crafted sapphire crystals, including the hypnotic snake's eyes. These domes are more than aesthetic marvels; they are revolving hour and minute indicators, machined from solid aluminum for weightlessness, and enhanced with hand-applied Super-LumiNova to maintain the serpent's luminous gaze even in darkness.

​Beneath this serpentine exterior lies a mechanical masterpiece. The oversized 14mm flying balance wheel, the "brain" of this mechanical reptile, floats majestically under a three-dimensional balance bridge. Flip the watch, and the case back reveals the power reserve indicator alongside some of the 310 hand-finished components—a testament to MB&F's dedication to artisanal craftsmanship.

Automotive influences subtly weave into the design, reflecting both Fabrizio and Max's passion for car aesthetics. From the case's sleek, aerodynamic profile to crown details reminiscent of sports car wheels, every element echoes dynamic motion. Even the hexagonal grille motif nods to Bvlgari's historic Serpenti designs while channeling the spirit of high-performance engineering.

The Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti debuts in three captivating versions, each limited to just 33 pieces:

• Grade 5 Titanium with deep blue hour and minute domes
• 18K Rose Gold featuring piercing green eyes
• Black PVD-Coated Stainless Steel with vibrant red eyes

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Pricing reflects the exceptional craftsmanship: CHF 132,000 + VAT (USD 148,000 / EUR 140,000 + tax) for the titanium and stainless steel models and CHF 152,000 + VAT (USD 170,000 / EUR 161,000 + tax) for the 18K gold variant.

​Few brands embody the fusion of art and engineering quite like Richard Mille (richardmille.com). Known for its avant-garde timepieces, the Swiss luxury watchmaker has always drawn inspiration from contemporary art and design. Now, the brand takes that connection to new heights with a three-year partnership with the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), one of the world's most influential art institutions.

Like contemporary artists who push creative boundaries, Richard Mille redefines the art of watchmaking, merging cutting-edge technology with an uncompromising aesthetic. The recent Richard Mille release, the angular RM 16-02 Extraflat, was on hand, reflecting the brand's dedication to transcending the conventional. It is a timepiece quintessentially Richard Mille, equally as controversial and challenging as the conceptual art on view. ​

​As a Major Partner, Richard Mille will support MoMA's Contemporary Collection, including exhibitions in the museum's second-floor galleries and performances in the Marie-Josée and Henry Kravis Studio. The museum serves as a space where the avant-garde meets the accessible, offering the public an invitation to explore the complexity of modern life through the lens of art.

​To mark the beginning of its 270th-anniversary celebrations, Vacheron Constantin (vacheron-constantin.com) introduces a reimagined icon: the Historiques 222 in stainless steel. This contemporary iteration pays homage to a pivotal creation in the Maison's history, blending vintage allure with an undeniable modern cool factor. The possibility of this reissue is a grail watch that collectors dream about. 

Initially launched in 1977 to commemorate Vacheron Constantin's 222nd anniversary, Jorg Hysek designed the 222 and instantly captivated the horological world. It redefined the sports watch genre, moving beyond professional utility to embrace a versatile design that merges sportiness with Vacheron's uniquely understated elegance. Its signature integrated bracelet, flat table, fluted bezel, and Maltese cross emblem at 5 o'clock distinguished the 222 as a quintessentially 1970s masterpiece.

Powered by the ultra-thin Calibre 1120, the original 222 was as functional as it was stylish, with a water-resistant monobloc case and an unprecedented slimness of 7 mm. Its baton-style hands, minimalist markers, and bold bracelet links exuded modern confidence. The current desire for steel sports watches knows no bounds, and the steel 222 hits all the right notes for what watch collectors are looking for today. (see the fever for Patek's Nautilus and Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak as perfect examples).

​The caseback now features a sapphire crystal, unveiling the meticulously finished movement and commemorating the Maison's 270th anniversary with a special engraving.

While rooted in nostalgia, this re-edition is unmistakably contemporary. With the Historiques 222, Vacheron Constantin bridges past and present, celebrating 270 years of horological artistry in style. Available later this year at Vacheron Constantin boutiques, the stainless steel Historiques 222 is a collector's dream and a symbol of daring creativity—a fitting tribute to Vacheron Constantin's storied legacy.

A dazzling new timepiece from Oris (oris.ch) brings a splash of fabulousness to the start of the year. This extraordinary ProPilot X Miss Piggy Edition celebrates the larger-than-life persona of Miss Piggy, the most glamorous diva of The Muppets, with a design as bold and confident as its muse.
A Collaboration Full of Joy and StyleThis new watch is Oris’ second collaboration with The Muppets, following the wildly popular ProPilot X Kermit Edition, which charmed the world with its playful “Kermit Day” feature. The Miss Piggy Edition continues this legacy with a hot pink dial, a baguette diamond marking the 12 o’clock hour, and a whimsical secret—a spyhole on the polished case back that reveals a coy, demure portrait of Miss Piggy on the lilac rotor. As the rotor spins, Miss Piggy’s image appears and disappears, adding an irresistible touch of charm.

​Oris has crafted this timepiece for individuals who embrace life with confidence, style, and a sense of fun—just like Miss Piggy herself. Whether you’re an admirer of haute horology or simply love to make a bold statement, the ProPilot X Miss Piggy Edition is a testament to living fabulously and unapologetically.

​"From the very early days of Van Cleef and Arpels, the founding family had the idea to capture the concept of the beauty of movement and a particular form of fragility and femininity found in nature, in flowers, in butterflies, dragonflies. Concepts that are also essential sources of inspiration in ballet," explains Nicolas Bas, the group chief executive officer of Richemont. "Expressions of movement, very sophisticated and delicate, would be captured literally or conceptually in their work as jewelers."

Fast-forward to today, where iconic dance performances inspire a new chapter in horological splendor: the Lady Arpels Ballerine Musicale watch, part of The Poetry of Time collection. Drawing upon the timeless art of ballet, the enchanting world of Van Cleef & Arpels unveils a trio of exquisite timepieces that pay homage to the magic of dance.​

​The first, the 'Lady Arpels Ballerine Musicale watch,' is a testament to the ballet's whimsy and wonder. Its dial, adorned with shimmering diamonds and vibrant gemstones, depicts the curtain rising on a new ballet production. Each hour is marked by a dance of color and light, making this timepiece a true work of art. 

The theatrical-inspired dial, a testament to Van Cleef & Arpels' meticulous artistry, features an extraordinary blend of white and rose gold, colored sapphires, blue tourmalines, diamonds, sugilite, onyx, and lapis lazuli. The intricate plique-à-jour and champlevé enamel techniques, sealed and shaped enamel, enamel beads, and miniature painting, all meticulously crafted, bring the dial to life. Once wound, the manual movement holds a power reserve of 40 hours, a testament to the brand's commitment to unexpected excellence.

In contrast, the series of three timepieces, "Diamant, Rubis, Emeraude," exudes a regal elegance reminiscent of the ballet's grandeur. A symphony of intricate engravings and celestial motifs adorns the case and dial, evoking the timeless allure of Tchaikovsky's iconic score. TECH DETAILS TK

​Today, Van Cleef & Arpels' commitment to the world of dance extends beyond horology and haute couture. The Maison proudly sponsors emerging dance groups and champions modern choreography and performances. This dedication ensures that the spirit of innovation and creativity, championed by Balanchine, continues to thrive with the next generation of dancers and choreographers.

"We've expanded our support and our collaboration besides traditional ballet in opera houses to more contemporary forms because now it is part of today's repertoire. Still, in 1967, a dance like "Jewels" was a very new, contemporary, and avant-garde piece, and we want to keep that tradition. Over the years we've had many, many collaborations with many different types of artists."

In 2020, Van Cleef & Arpels initiated the series, 'Dance Reflections by Van Cleef and Arpels.' This series supports the creations of contemporary choreographers and scenographers, aiming to discover new, experimental forms and a more modern repertoire. It reintroduces and brings avant-garde pieces from the '60s, '70s, and '80s by renowned choreographers such as Lucinda Childs, The Trisha Brown Dance Company, and Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker to a contemporary audience.  

The romance of dance and haute horlogerie is a testament to the enduring legacy of artistic performance and Van Cleef & Arpels, where innovation meets tradition and artistry knows no bounds. "I strongly believe in a trend of more sophisticated, complex, and diverse offerings for women's watches, including mechanical watches that can be traditional movements revisited or completely new approaches to mechanical watchmaking. For Van Cleef & Arpels, it's been an exciting evolution."