Time Traveling: A Visit to the Chanel Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds

​Nestled in the horological heartland of La Chaux-de-Fonds, a city synonymous with watchmaking excellence, lies a state-of-the-art manufacturer pushing the boundaries of materials innovation—a specialist in high-tech colored ceramic components. From cases to bezels and bracelets, this facility transforms raw ceramic powder into lustrous, scratch-resistant masterpieces destined for the world's most prestigious timepieces. Chanel is only one of three Swiss manufacturers that have done so. 

​Located about 1.5 hours from Geneva, the area is known for its watchmaking prowess. The crisp Alpine air carries a quiet sense of precision and craftsmanship. The building itself is a study in modern industrial design—glass, steel, and sleek surfaces that reflect the very materials crafted within. Inside, the atmosphere is pristine and almost clinical, akin to a high-tech laboratory or medical facility. 

​A guided tour begins with an introduction to the ceramic-making process, which is far more complex than one might imagine. The raw material, zirconium dioxide, arrives as an ultra-fine powder, which must be carefully blended with proprietary pigments to achieve the perfect hues, whether deep black or sparkling white. A fascinating observation is that the powered pigments often start out looking nothing like the final product. 

Next comes isostatic pressing, where immense pressure compacts the material into pre-formed shapes. This is followed by sintering, where components are baked at over 1,400°C, shrinking by nearly 30% while achieving their legendary hardness and resilience.  

​Unlike metal, ceramic is notoriously tricky to work with. Here, we witness diamond-tipped CNC machines carving the hardened ceramic to within micron-level tolerances. Bezel grooves, bracelet links, and case profiles emerge in perfect symmetry. Final components are tossed into large vats of what appears to be a type of ball bearing for different levels of finishing, from high gloss to matte. A separate area is dedicated to hand-finishing, where artisans polish and brush surfaces with obsessive attention to detail—mimicking the contrast of polished and satin-finished gold or steel but with ceramic's unique tactile feel.  

​Components are meticulously inspected under high magnification in a dedicated cleanroom. Any slight imperfection means a piece is discarded—perfection is the only acceptable standard. Some cases are paired with other elements, fusing the best of traditional and modern materials.  

Having worn an all-ceramic watch for quite some time, I can attest that the sensation is unexpected—lighter than steel, yet velvety smooth and impossibly durable. The tactile quality of the ceramic feels fantastic on the skin, reacting to the body temperature almost immediately. The colors of the final products are rich and deep, with a permanence that will never fade.  

​Chanel's approach to watchmaking goes beyond material innovation—it's also a fascinating study in strategic brand development. Chanel has been quietly investing in independent watchmakers like Bell & Ross, F.P. Journe, and MB&F, alongside acquiring key manufacturers such as G&F Châtelain and Manufacture Romain Gauthier. These partnerships safeguard traditional Swiss craftsmanship and serve as a calculated move to cement Chanel's status among haute horology's elite. With remarkable global name recognition, the brand cultivates a distinctive presence through fashion awareness. Still, the artisanal expertise, technical innovation, and a thoughtful, long-term vision help elevate its luxury watchmaking division to stand very much on its own.